Tuesday, 15 February 2011

Blowin away

Alighting from the train I headed into Tornby Klitplantage and set up camp for the night it had been a cold clear and calm sunny day, sadly for me most of the day had been spent on the train.





The following morning I awoke to an ice encrusted shelter, having had breakfast I set off on the frozen ground towards the coast as the clouds gradually built with a breeze strengthening. I crossed Liver Å on the bridge and it was evident that any moisture in the sand had frozen whilst evidence of sand slips above the bridge ensured that every step was taken with care.



The trail took me through many summer house areas as it skirted the coast line and with the wind increasing the sun covered in cloud there was little time to hang around, it was cold. Finally descending and then walking along the beach to Lonstrup before heading through this quiet windswept village and once again turning south west towards the highlights of the days walk.



The coastline here is subjected to the force of the wind and the North Sea and as a result the coast line is forever changing and with many buildings gradually getting closer to the cliffs and ultimately disappearing. Such is the case with Mårup church originally built in the 1200's about a kilometre from the sea, it is now less than 10 metres from the sea.





To the south of the church lies Rubjerg Knude and accompanying light house, as I climbed to the top of the dune the windswept sand ensured that my face was kept buried in my Tuara.




Fortunately much of the sand was frozen and as such it was not too bad, I can however imagine the sand storms that must rage through this area at times.



The sand around the lighthouse was hollowed out making a veritable wind tunnel and it was interesting to see that the lighthouse originally built in 1899 was surrounded by outbuildings but now only the tower remained. The lighthouse was decommissioned in 1968 and the fight against the sand drifts was given up in 2002, once again demonstrating the power of nature.




Leaving the sand dune the trail descended into the peaceful sheltered tranquility of a small forest, it was here, sheltered from the wind, I had lunch.

The afternoon took me through Nørre Lyngby another town threatened by the encroaching sea.

Leaving Nørre Lyngby the trail followed the sea and I slipped and slid over many large ice patches on the sand (should have packed my micro spikes) while there was more evidence of the power of the sea over man made structures.




The cliffs provided some respite from the wind, however, it was evident that the wind was increasing and the accompanying windchill ensured the temps were dropping into the the negatives teens I decided that it was time to find a sheltered spot for the night and a small cabin seemed ideal. Having booked into the cabin, on the outskirts of Løkken, with forecasts of wind speeds ranging between 15 and 20 metres per second for the coming days and with temps below zero combined with a possible reoccurrence of an old injury I felt it was time to head home.

Some gear observations, the Haglöfs Ozo Pullover was perfect for such conditions and it has possibly the best hood of any jacket I have used.

The MLD Speed mid is an ideal size for one and provides enough space should the weather turn bad, this will be going on more trips.

For the trip I used the Snowpeak Gigapower Ti Stove and I used 20 gms of gas per litre of water.



I will be back, as there are many more beaches to walk.


6 comments:

Joe Newton said...

The top of that decommissioned lighthouse would make a magical bivy spot! Please tell me you at least tried the door when you walked past?!

George Carr said...

What a wonderful opportunity to hike in some beautiful surroundings. Great report! Do you have any experience beach hiking in the summer? There are some places near me, but I'm concerned with the sand getting into everything.

Nielsen Brown said...

Joe, yeah I guess it would, the front entry is sealed, the rear windward side was not sealed but did not appear to go anywhere. My concern would be you may wake up in a pile of rubble if you slept up the top.

Thanks George, I have camped on the beaches in Australia and yes sand in everything is certainly a problem especially in the wind, however, with such magnificent beaches as in Denmark I would go anyway though you do need to watch out for cars going flatstrap along the beach.

Martin Rye said...

It is amazing the power of the sea. I wonder what the coast would be like in a decade from now if you walked it? Interesting post and thanks for that.

Nielsen Brown said...

Thanks Martin, I thought it was interesting that there was also a loss of some of the Coast to Coast Trail the other day.

Maybe you and I should plan a trip for 10 years time along the West Jutland Coast.

George Carr said...

What a wonderful opportunity to hike in some beautiful surroundings. Great report! Do you have any experience beach hiking in the summer? There are some places near me, but I'm concerned with the sand getting into everything.