Sunday, 5 October 2014

E6: Korsør to Hvalsø

The European Walking Trail E6 is one of the two trails that pass through Denmark. I had set off from the railway station at Korsør following the bike path as it paralleled the railway line in the direction I had just come from.

As I walked I past a cyclist who was fixing a puncture and was soon passed by other cyclists with large saddle bags. I thought to myself t would be a busy campsite tonight with all these cyclists.  I entered Svenstrup and then headed north to the beach. Whilst to was sunny, with an on shore breeze it was a little cool.

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After a pleasant walk along the beach it was onto the roads which would be my constant companion for the next 10 kms or so. The roads took me through a variety of farmlands and summer house areas before depositing me at Trelleborg with its Viking ring fortress, one of 5 in Denmark the most recent of which was discovered only recently.

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It was late in the evening and I set up camp in the open spaces designated for camping, at this time of the year it was quiet but when the museum is in full operation it would be much busier. After dinner I set off to investigate the area and soon met a person from Aarhus who was photographing the area for the museum, in particular he was using a drone, so I was somewhat fascinated by it, as well as, expressing my concerns about their use in the future.

But for now I was amazed at how quickly it climbed from the ground to its legal height limit of 200 metres. With the sun descending after a warm day I was attracted by the patterns in the shingle roof.

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 The roof is a work of art and no doubt took many hours to construct.


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The sun was setting as I entered the ring. It was at this time the drone was launched from the centre of the ring as I sat quietly to one side. We were both trying to get the sunset pictures, for those wondering the area is grazed by sheep, the evidence of which is on the bridge.

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As I was leaving the ring fortress another couple arrived and climbed to the top, perfect timing I thought.

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It was another sunny morning and the best thing that can be said about the mornings walking was bitumen, towns and a couple of grave mounds. Once past Slagelese the scenery began to improve with forests and small villages. I stopped for lunch in Lorup forest and finding a comfortable spot a quick resting of the eyes was in order. With the weather warm and the bitumen warm it was not the most pleasant of walks, but the changing scenery ensured that the kilometres past quickly and I was soon descending to Tystrup Sø.

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Climbing away from the lake I continued passing by the village of Vester Broby which is adjacent to the Kongsgarden and has its origins in the 12 th century. The rolling hills which had been recently cut for hay and the Sus river valley encouraged me to revisit the area and take the time to wander the trails in this picturesque area. Evening was approaching and I felt it was time to start looking for a campsite. Surprising a deer as I found a spot in the forest I was soon settled in for the night having covered 41 km, which was a little too far for me. I was awoken from my slumber during the night by voices of young people, possibly returning home form a party. I did wonder where they came from and where they went to but was soon asleep again.

The weather the next morning was overcast and threatening as I headed through the village of Alsted, it seemed that everyone was out walking dogs as I was being greeted my dog walkers as well as lady on a motorised wheel chair, I wondered where she was going as it was evident that this village no longer had any shops nor a post office. Which is something I see all too often perhaps leading to the demise of many of these small towns. More roads led me to the small house on the prairie on the outskirts of Høm.

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I decided to stop in the garden of the Høm church and have morning tea. It was beautiful old church established in 1500’s  and even though the busy main road to Ringsted was a mere 100 metres away the church precinct was very peaceful. After a while and a brief chat to a lady tending to the garden, I set off for the road walk into Ringsted. Fortunately the trail bypasses Ringsted as it follows  the appropriatly named Ringsted  Å (river)  I was to follow this path for several kilometres, under the main north south railway line and then the motorway, having first crossed it 2 days ago.

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Then into the fields before arriving at Harald lake. I sat looking out over the lake in the cool breeze and it was evident that rain was on the way. After a slight navigational error, damm goats, I past Knud Lavard chapel as the rain began to fall from the sky. It was one of those showers of rain that continued to fall for more than 2 hours, I initially had sought shelter but in the end gave up and just walked, so I cannot tell you much about Skjoldenæsholm Hotel & Conference Center except that there were golfers out on the course who were as mad as me and were happily hitting and chasing golf balls in the torrential downpour. I finally reached the campsite for the night and dived into the tent which was where I stayed.

The rain had stopped in the morning but unsurprisingly the air was damp and a mist hung around the forest.

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I walked into history following Valdamarsvej, a sunken road which was (King Christian IV’s, 1588 - 1648) private highway connecting Roskilde with Haraldsted.  As the sun began to peek through the mist the trip was drawing to an end.

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Soon I was on the train heading home after an enjoyable 3 days along the E6.