Gendarmstien: Høruphav to Broager around Sønderborg Bight

Sometimes there is snow in winter in Denmark, but appears more likely to me that it will be very windy, rainy, muddy and possibly gloomy as well. This was the weather I experienced on this trip which was a complete contrast to my experience last year where there were snow drifts of over a metre deep. I set off from Høruphav in the early afternoon in cool but sunny weather, the trail starts near the Hotel Baltic, originally established as a ferry inn in 1665 it is now a luxury hotel and restaurant. Passing the nearby harbour where some boats were still moored I followed the well made and marked path around the shoreline, with the sun shining and little breeze it was cool but enjoyable, gradually I left the day walkers and the dog walkers behind as I continued past Stenholt and into the Sønderskov forest.

A walk, a camp and a touch of snow.

I set off late towards Tisvilde Hegn and after leaving the station I headed into the forest, it was a cool, grey cold evening. But what really surprised me how calm it was, the sea was calm and with no breeze there was nothing to be heard. I wandered through the forest admiring the various twisted shapes of the trees, but being so dull the camera was struggling. After a while I set up camp and settled in for the night. Settling down after dinner I listened to Bob and Andy and their Christmas in a Tent podcast quite impressive and funny especially when the strong gusts of wind hit the tent, a contrast to my location. Soon I was nodding off to sleep to the sound of a Pearl Owl and later a Tawny Owl. I awoke during the night to the sound of light rain, which I realised in the morning was snow.

Lesson learnt in Gribskov

I had been hoping to get away for a couple of days but various distractions put paid to that plan. However, a window of opportunity opened, or was blown open with the passing of the last big storm. I was keen to try out a different clothing arrangement, and with very windy conditions predicted it seemed like the ideal time to head out.

Præstø to Vordingsborg; Along Sjællandsleden

Wandering the Sjællandsleden.

The Sjællandsleden is a series of interconnected trails around the island of Zealand, the island on which Copenhagen is located. The trail mostly follows the southern and western coastline but occasionally detours into the hinterland. The scenery can be rewarding, and often you will find places where quiet contemplation is possible.

I was looking for a walk for three days and scoured the online maps of the Sjællandsleden to locate an area where most of the time I would be near the coast, be in the forest and have opportunities for stealth camping, having walked the sections from Rødvig to Fakse Ladeplads and Stevns Trampsti, thus I decided upon the section between Præstø and Vordingborg.

After an interesting time on public transport, with delayed trains, missed bus connections I finally arrived in Præstø, the beginning of the walk along St Antonius Stien which forms part of the Sjællandsleden.